Reverse Engineering… On my 94 Ford Probe V6 GT (POS)

Reverse engineering is the process of learning how a product is made by taking it apart and examining it.

I know more about 1994 Ford Probes than any woman on the planet, and as a “do-it- yourself” kinda gal, I thought I’d post a couple of my “reverse engineering” shots for those of you who need a close up of the greasy, oily, crud-caked crap that you will not find in the Haynes/Chilton manuals.

So, in the beginning, there was this car…. which was a freebie given to me by my loving grandfather when I gave my ex the other car just so he would have a way to “GET THE HELL AWAY FROM ME.”

In the beginning….In the beginning….

Then the hood blew off at 60 miles per hour…


Followed by half the stuff UNDER the hood lifting UP with the hood when I stopped to check the oil….


And of course, not long after, I was replacing the water pump.. and then the timing belt broke…






So this is when the timing belt broke


This is after I broke down the left side of the motor…removed the water pump pulley bolts and drivebelts from the alternator and power steering pump, then removed the water pump pulley. Position the number one cylinder at TDC.



Using a “persuasion bar” to make sure the crankshaft doesn’t turn:



Removed the drivebelt tensioner bracket, and while it says to use a 0.060-inch pin in the tensioner after compression, I just used a nail… worked fine.



Don’tcha love my floormat?



Gettin’ ‘er done! (Um… Yeah… that would be me….)



Set the timing marks on the camshaft, put and reverse engineer one more time to put the damn thing back together…. and she runs like a scalded dog. Go Me!


31 Responses to Reverse Engineering… On my 94 Ford Probe V6 GT (POS)

  1. David says:

    So let me get this straight. You replaced one of those infernal belts yourself? You are really good and really brave! Just looking at all that work makes me nervous. Hope you didn’t have any leftover screws.

  2. mysree says:

    Yes, David, I did that, or rather, I’m still doing that. My timing belt had wrapped around the crank. I still have to get off the motor mount before I can get started with the “put it back together” engineering”. LOL!

  3. jd says:

    you are a loser it took me 3weeks to rebuild an entire probe thats with new suspention to a new crank.. lame.

  4. Twila_Zoned says:

    @JD: well considering I’m a woman who has never done car repairs, I think I did pretty damned good. Just me and a Chilton’s manual. So frankly, my dear, you can kiss my ass!

  5. Floyd says:

    Nice work you have done there. I also turn my own wrenches and I was wondering if you knew if the 1994 GT v6 model of the probe has a non interference motor? Any input is appreciated. Thanks, Floyd

  6. Twila_Zoned says:

    The 2.5 V6 IS a non-interference engine (so at least if the timing belt snaps no damage to the engine occurs.)

  7. Ken in PA says:

    My friend and I had to do the same thing to my 4 cylinder ’97 Probe and it was a pain. So, have you been able to get it finished?

  8. cody says:

    hey nice work i have a few problems with my v6 probe i was woundering if you could give me some tips on it

  9. T.M.M. says:

    Actually Ken, I did! Thanks!

  10. T.M.M. says:

    Cody I’m gonna send you my email address. It’s will say Ford Probe in the subject line. Be glad to help if I can!

  11. Austin says:

    Ha ya i have a Ford probe GT and they are the biggest POS’s i have ever had. Yesterday I just snapped a belt and my water pump went out. And just a week before that I put $1300 into it for a new hydrolic system, slave cylinder, and new brakes all the way around.

  12. Travis says:

    Austin – I have a 93 with 260,000 miles. Not a POS by any means. Still runs & looks great. I’m putting a little bit of money in it, but nothing unexpected (water pump, tie rod ends, ac compressor). Up to this point I’ve spent very little money on the car. Take good care of it and it’ll take good care of you.

  13. Hi there can I use some of the material here in this post if I provide a link back to your site?

  14. […] Set the timing marks on the […]

  15. Ann says:

    I need to replace my timing belt and never did one- I don’t want to pay some guy 400 – any tips?

  16. Twila Marie says:

    If I can replace one, anyone can! I’m simply a single mom with no money for “professional” mechanics. I simply reach for the Chiltons, read every step involved in the process before I do it, and find forums if I still have questions. Unless you’re superman you’re probably gonna need another set of hands for back up because it can get tight up in that damn motor area and if u need a tool or drop one you are FUBAR.

    My favorite resources for anything Probe related are:
    Probe Talk
    Ford OBD-II Trouble Codes
    Wiki Answers for Probes

  17. elm327USB says:


    […]Reverse Engineering… On my 94 Ford Probe V6 GT (POS) « How Did I Get Here From There?[…]…

  18. bydgoszcz says:


    […]Reverse Engineering… On my 94 Ford Probe V6 GT (POS) « How Did I Get Here From There?[…]…

  19. tcb32 says:

    when replacing the belt and the water pump do you need to remove the motor mounts and lift the engine from the car?

  20. tcb32 says:

    oh ok i was told that the engine needed to be unbolted at the 3 motor mounts and raised out of the car in order to change the water pump and timing belt system, thanks

  21. Steve says:

    Condition looks exactly the same as my 94 probe except my hood hasnt flown off… Yet :p

  22. Chris says:

    Ive hit a road block…. i had the Tensioner pulley for the Alt an A/C just come off while I was driving. Any way you could help me with the sizes of it? Especially the ID. I ordered a pulley an the ID was way too big. Plz help!

  23. Twila Marie says:

    actually the easiest way to get the right part and rep;air info is at just enter your car info and you can get illustrated repair guides and specs 100% free, but i generally find replacement parts much MUCH cheaper online through

  24. Jermaine says:

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  26. MThomas says:

    I broke one of the bolts on the front motor mount any suggestion on how too remove without lifting the motor too high. When I get to the bolt what should I use to remove it.

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